I don’t even want to write about it. I have spent another day sitting in the cramped quarters of the van. My knees ache from inertia and my back is killing me from all the bouncing. It becomes contagious, this mood of not wanting to shoot anything if there are no bears. Forget snowscapes. The females in the group have taken to not drinking anything after leaving the lodge because trying to get through 6 layers, then literally freeze your butt off to squat in the snow, is just not good. Neither is dehydration but it seems the lessor of the evils. We sleep and read the day away. Finally at the end of another bear-less day, we stop and photograph a lone ptarmigan. It is the event of much joking that we have ‘captured’ a polar chicken.